The Universal Flight Simulator

Phil Smith

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Maybe the holes are for LEDs.
That's what my initial thought was. But I can't see how one supposed to wire them, cause the hole itself is blind and there is no space for wires (see pictures attached).
I ended up with printing plugs with locating pin, which has a snug fit even without applying glue.
That method of filling with PVA is failed by the way :) To soft and no adhesion with surface.

Maybe the color is what they could buy cheap this week. Probably intended to be painted in the end product.
Haha, maybe it is the case with those soviet switches – don’t get me wrong, they are mil-spec, built like a brick dunny, but that inconsistency with them colours man..:LOL:
 

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Phil Smith

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Hey guys,

Progress report 2024-W23:

  1. All MFD button caps are removed from switch assemblies and installed in custom fixture for painting.
  2. 2mm glass was cut to size to fit fuel indicator to protect LCD panel. Process of making other 3x glasses for 3x MFD is underway.
PS. The glass is dirty for a time being and will be cleaned after final assembly of the indicator.
Little note regarding painting – as I paint everything outside, I rely on good weather, which doesn’t want to cooperate for last 2x weeks or so here in the S-E UK.. haha
 

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Phil Smith

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Hi all,


Progress report 2024-W24:
1. Protection glass is cut for both 10" AMFDs.
2. Most of MFD parts are ready for spray paint.
3. Prototyping for MFD button insects is finished. Printing and sanding are ongoing.

PS. Also I've scored a real HUD unit from Tornado GR4 aircraft on Ebay. It misses couple of side cover plates and combiner glass with front panel.
Internally it is a complete unit (both optically and mechanically).
Recreating missing part should not be a problem, even a combiner is doable. Far easier than reverse engineering the beast.. 😊
Attached couple of ebay listing photos - because I've disassembled it straight after arriving due to its size (almost 2ft long) and weight (around 15kg) haha

There are 2x ways of making it work again:
  1. Reverse engineering the CRT circuit and feed a composite signal from Raspberry (preferable!).
  2. Removing the CRT assy all together and use off-the-shelf LCD with high brightness LED for its backlight (plan B).
 

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